1 July – Kabelvaag

The Swedes next door decided that they wanted to depart even earlier than they had suggested last night, so we were on our way by 8.30.  It was a beautiful sunny day, with a gentle NW breeze, so we were quite happy to finish our bacon sandwiches on the way.

The wind stayed light and in the NW, so we had a great sail up the coast checking out Hanningsvaer, another little fishing village, to confirm that we didn’t want to stay there.  The villages on the islands are all very picturesque, and certainly dramatically situated.

We got to Kabelvaag early in the afternoon.   Another pretty place, with a little harbour in the middle of the village surrounded by traditional houses – and a pub at the end of the pontoon.  What more could we ask for?

We walked for 20 minutes or so to the next village, Solvagen, which has the Lofoten Museum and an Aquarium – both excellent, and Fi was able to renew her acquaintanceship with Wolf-fish and other denizens.  The walk back along the shoreline was glorious.

I’m now writing this in the pier-end pub, after a sumptuous meal including (whisper it softly) smoked whale – salty and unlikely to catch on.  At least the Norwegians don’t try to pretend they are catching the poor beasts for scientific purposes.

It’s still  – 9.30 – blazing sunshine outside, and Kyla and Fi are going out to try to come to terms with it.

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